BARCELONA 

Contents

• Introduction to Barcelona 
• Districts of the city 
• La Rambla 
• Old Barcelona 
• Coastline 
• El Ensanche 
• Gracia 
• Güell Park & Horta 
• Sant Gervasi and the residential areas of the city 
• Mount Tibidabo and Collserola 
• The area around Barcelona 
• Annual Events & Festivals 
• Shopping 
• Restaurants 
• Museums 
• Medieval Art 
• History 
• Contemporary Art 
• Science 
• Sea 
• Other 

Introduction

Barcelona stands on a plain that slopes gently down from the Sierra de Collserola (with it highest mountain, Mount Tibidabo, at 512m) to the sea. The City's civic and political centre is situated in the square known as Plaça de Sant Jaume, where the palaces of the Generalitat and the Town Hall stand. The management of the city is under the control of this latter, all-powerful institution. 

The other palace, ie. of the Generalitat, is the seat of the government of the Catalan Autonomous Community. At present, Catalonia has about 6 million inhabitants. It started life as a ´march´ at the time of Charlemagne (9C), when this area came out of its long prehistoric past of Iberian tribes, colonisation by the Phoenicians and Greek, Roman domination, the invasion of the Goths, and finally the Arabs, who were the reason why the Franks decided to set up a border-defence area. As a result, a new country was born on both sides of the eastern sector of the Pyrenees. With the passing of time, and thanks to Barcelona, this country, composed of different counties, became first independent and then, following the union of Catalonia and Aragon, became a kingdom with Barcelona as its capital. Towards the end of the 15C, Catalonia and Aragon joined up with the kingdom of Castile and, at the beginning of the 18C, were absorbed under the Spain of the bourbons, thus losing their independence. It was at this time when Barcelona, thanks to its commercial and manufacturing drive, became the most modern city in the country. Its independent past and modernity were to determine, from that moment onwards, the ambiguous character of this Mediterranean city. 

Barcelona contains monuments and remains from all the different stages in its history, and therefore is a very old city with a rich and varied past. All this comes to light in many ways. For example, in its traditionalism. This is expressed in religion - Christian in character but with strong pagan overtones; in society, with very deep-rooted direct relationships, great importance given to the family and with some imaginative and clever individuals; in the economy, with small and efficient companies; in popular festivities that are maintained with both naturalness and fervour; in the Catalan language, which has still been conserved despite constant pressure from the Spanish language; and in the gastronomy, as well as other areas of popular or minority culture. Nevertheless, Barcelona has almost always held its modern image, mainly because it has kept its traditions. This could be seen in the Middle Ages with French-Style feudalism in Catalonia and a very strong feeling of a free city in Barcelona; in the early dedication to commerce and the manufacture of textiles in the 14C; in the industrialisation at the beginning of the 19C; in the great movement dedicated to cultural and political recovery in the latter part of the last century (the so-called Renaixença), which was then followed by the equally important and powerful "modernisme" or Modernism period in Catalonia, along with several other ultra-modern movements in the 20C. The writer Vargas Llosa said that there was no other city in the world as "snobbish" as Barcelona, except for Milan. The search for and capture of what is "new" is characteristic of one sector of the population and slowly spreads to the rest. It is no wonder, therefore, that some people have spoken of "schizophrenia" caused by the dichotomy between what is traditional and what is new. 

At the moment, Barcelona is a "closed" city. That is, it cannot and does not want to grow any more, and so, as result, its streets and buildings are now undergoing a restoration period, and it is trying to improve its services and living conditions in an attempt to substitute quantity for quality. Its newly restored squares are already drawing the attention of the rest of the world, and during the summer months there are all kinds of sporting, commercial and cultural event being held in ever-increasing numbers where previously there was nothing. 

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Districts of the City 

Between El Ensanche and the port area there is an area of narrow, irregularly laid out streets. This is Old Barcelona and takes the shape of a six sided polygon formed by the Avinguda del Parallel, the Rondes of Sant Pau, Sant Antoni, la Universitat and Sant Pere, the Passeig Picasso and, by the sea, the Passeig de Colom. Old Barcelona is also divided into three parts: firstly what is known as the district of La Antigua, between La Rambla and La Via Laietana; to the left of this is the district of El Raval and finally, to the right stands the Ribera district. Of the three, perhaps the most interesting is the the district of La Antigua. There is an almost oval-shaped area contained within this district which is bounded by the streets of Avinyó, Banys Nous, la Palla, the Avinguda de la Catedral, the Via Laietana and Carrer Ample. This is the oldest and most typically Spanish quarter in Barcelona and is known as the "Barrio Gotico" (Gothic quarter) because of the great many Gothic buildings it contains. La Rambla, on the other hand, is the most famous and typical street in Barcelona, and therefore one of the places that is most frequented by visitors. 

To the left of the area of Old Barcelona stands the hill of Montjuic. This is of particular interest because of its museums, sports and exhibition complexes and other forms of entertainment. To the right of this area stands the Ciutadella Park where we can find a variety of installations, including the Catalonian Parliament, the Museum of Modern Art and the Zoo. Between this park and the port stands the triangular-shaped maritime district of La Barceloneta. This very typical district juts out into the sea. 

The city's upper districts, from the Avinguda Diagonal towards the left, are also the most salubrious, and so it is not surprising that they are also the most aristocratic. This is especially so in the case of the district of Pedralbes, with its sports complexes and university campus, and, to a lesser extent, the districts of Sarria and La Bonanova. Above these, in the Sierra de Collserola, we find the villages and mountainous areas of Vallvidrera, Le Floresta, Les Planes and Valldoreix. In the central area, between the Avinguda Diagonal and the foot of Mount Tibidabo around the streets of Aribau and Muntaner, we find the district of Sant Gervasi. To the right of this is located the old town of Gracia above the Avinguda Diagonal, with its small squares and craftsmen's workshops. 

The area furthest to the left, on the far side of the hill of Montjuic, is known as the Zona Franca, and above this there is the town of l´Hospitalet (There is no difference between this and the adjoining area to Barcelona) and between this and El Ensanche, below the Avinguda diagonal, the town-cum-districts of Les Corts and Sants. 

The right-hand areas of Barcelona contain, amongst others the districts of El Guinardó and Horta. Even further to the right are the more popular districts, which, for the most part, were formed after 1940 by immigrants. These include Sant Andreu de Palomar, Sant Adria de Besos and Nou Barris. The district nearest the sea is known as Poble Nou. 

To sum up, there is El Ensanche in the centre; Montjuic, Old Barcelona and la Barceloneta beside the sea; the aristocratic districts on the left-hand side between Mount Tibidabo and the Avinguda Diagonal; the former town of Gracia in the centre and the popular districts to the right. This, of course, is a very simplified summary but it is enough to give one some idea of the layout of the city. 

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La Rambla 

Although La Rambla is unique, it really consists of five different "Ramblas" and two squares, and this is why it is sometimes given the name in plural of Las Ramblas. The upper section is called the Rambla de Canaletes and is made up of a square with many seats. it is here that people meet, perhaps to talk about politics, football of simply life itself; where you can drink the water from the Canaletes fountain and, as the legend would have it, become a native of Barcelona; where you can have your shoes cleaned by a shoeblack; where all kinds of demonstrations are organized; where one can have a drink or something to eat at establishments as "Canaletas", Nuria or Baviera. 

After this comes the Rambla dels Estudis, which gets its name from the fact that, in times gone by, it was the site of the Estudi General or University. In memory of those days, here we can find the Academia de Ciencies (Science Academy), located on the upper floor of the Poliorama Theatre. It is worth a visit to see its common rooms, library and an enormous clock dating from 1868. The Rambla dels Estudis is also known as the Rambla dels Ocells (Birds) because it has a small travelling market selling birds and other animals, including fish, tortoises and dogs, and because it is the only part of La Rambla where the sparrows in the trees make so much noise. Opposite the Poliorama Theatre stands the very popular Capitol cinema. There are also many hotels, such as "Ramada Renaissance" (with a shopping arcade), and the fine building belonging to the Compañia General de Filipinas, one of the most traditional companies in the country. On the Raval side stands the Church of Betlem, in Gothic and Baroque styles, and, on the other side, the beautiful Moya Palace which has recently been restored by the Generalitat. It has large halls and wall paintings, and is the setting for many exhibitions. 

Next we have the Rambla de Sant Josep, also known as the Rambla de les Flors since it is here that we find the famous florist's stalls, filling the whole area with their colour and scent. The artist Ramon Casas and the philosopher Serra Hunter both married florists from this street market. Nevertheless, it is not only the smell of the flowers that fills this area. A great deal of the aromas come from La Boqueria market, probably the finest and most bustling market in the whole city. It is situated in an arcaded square-like the Plaça Real- covered with a huge iron and glass roof which houses dozens of stalls selling vegetables, meat, fish and with bars providing food and drink. Everything is neatly arranged, along with the happy cries of the stallholders, it becomes one of the most appealing places in the city. In this Rambla we can also find shops of all kinds and large news stands, selling newspapers, magazines and books, that stay open until very late at night. The headquarters of the City Councils Department of Culture is located within the Palace of La Virreina-built by a viceroy of Spain in Peru for his young wife. It is here that important art and sculpture exhibitions are held. 

Between this Rambla and the next there is a small square known as the Pla de La Boqueria which was, once upon a time, the centre of the city. Here one can see an area paving that was designed by the painter Joan Miro, and, to one side, the beautiful house of Bruno Cuadros with its Chinese dragon and umbrellas on the façade. As there are no trees, the square is full of light as well as pigeons during the quietest moments. 

The Rambla de Caputxins or del Centre is typified by its street-side bars such as La Opera or Los Italianos where people go to look and be looked at. With its shops on all sides, iron fountains, magazine stands, and cigarette sellers, this is perhaps the best Rambla to see an improvised show: perhaps a woman amusing herself drinking a customers Horchata (orgeat) in a streetside bar, or maybe somebody juggling for a group of people putting on a clown show, or simply a drunkard giving a short speech... One can spend hour after hour in this Rambla, watching the people go by, enjoying the winter sun and summer breeze, or looking at the well-dressed people going in and out of El Liceu. 

El Liceu - the Barcelona Opera House - is a large, sumptuous theatre dating from the last century where they present, not only the great operas of Wagner, Verdi and Mozart performed by great singers, but also concerts, ballets and sometimes plays, and where great Carnival festivities have traditionally been held. Be it El Liceu, the Hotel Oriente (where the famous Hans Christian Andersen once stayed), the other hotels and inns, the cafés and bars from today or times gone by, it must be said that every inch of this Rambla is full of local and universal history. 

From here we pass into the square known as the Plaça Reial, built in the middle of the last century on the site of an old convent. Up until 1900 this was the square of the then bourgeoisie, with its palm trees, fountain and luxury shops. Then in this century it became a popular square with bars and pubs and public from many walks of life, including those rejected by society. The square itself is closed-off and has arcades. Many artists live here and there are a lot of shops, including such oddities as the Museum of Natural Sciences and the Herbolario del Rei (The Kings Herbalist). Here there is a place where flamenco dancing is performed called "Los Tarantos", a shoeblack stand and, on Sunday mornings, a coin and stamp market. 

Between the Rambla del Centre and the Rambla de Santa Monica there is another small square known as the Plaça del Teatre because of the Principal Theatre which stands there (this has now been converted into a cinema and a pelota court). It is in this square that one now comes across the beginnings of the area where the lowest stata of society are to be found, mainly in the red light districts of the Barrio Chino and Escudellers street. 

The last Rambla is called the Rambla de Santa Monica. It is typified by the church bearing the same name, the bars with their somewhat doubtful reputations, the typical restaurant called "Amaya", the "pelota" court, the Colon Jazz Club and Palace of Marc - headquarters of the Department of Culture of Generalitat and the scene of many interesting exhibitions. There is a popular market held in the centre selling cheap goods and many souvenir shops. One will now also notice the stronger wind and smells coming from the port.The port and the Portal de la Pau will be later described in the section dedicated to the Port of Barcelona. 

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Old Barcelona 

The centre of Barcelona Antigua is the Plaça de Sant Jaume. Here stood the Roman square or "forum" of the colony called Faventia Julia Augusta Paterna, founded in the 2C. B.C. It was in this square that the colony's two main streets crossed. These were El Cardó (now formed by streets of El Bisbe and La Ciutat) and El Decumanus (today the streets of La Llibreteria and El Call). In the 4C the small town was surrounded by walls in view of the danger of an invasion by barbarians. These were oval in shape and the walk around them can be made quite easily today via the Avinguda de la Catedral, Plaça Nova, the streets of La Palla, Banys Nous, Avinyo, Gignas, Correu Vell, El Sots-tinent Navarro, the squares of El Angel and Berenguer and the street of La Tapineria. The best sections of wall can be seen in those streets and squares whose names appear in bold print, and there is a gate flanked by two towers in the wall itself inside the Plaça Nova. 

In the Middle Ages the Roman square became the Plaça de Sant Jaume, and the two palaces, standing opposite each other, were built. One is the Palace of the Government of Catalonia, or "Generalitat", which controlled the whole independent kingdom of Catalonia and Aragon, along with their possessions in the Mediterranean, and the other is the Palace of the City Council. They are both in the Gothic style although their façades and halls belong to later eras. In the Palace of La Generalitat one should visit the "Pati dels Tarongers" (Patio of the Orange trees) and the Chapel of Sant Jordi, and in the Place of the City Council the magnificent "Salo de Cent" where the hundred representatives of the city's states used to meet, as well as several other halls and staircases to see the many works of art. 

The Plaça de Sant Jaume is the scene of many political and public ceremonies, popular spectacles and festivities, as well as demonstrations. Close-by is the small street of Paradís where the Centre Excursionista de Catalunya (a building of both social and scientific importance) stands. On the ground in front of the entrance there is a millstone which indicates the highest point of the small hill known as El Taber. This hill was occupied before the Romans by the Iberian tribe of the "layetanos" who built their village here. The Romans, after their conquest, set up the aforementioned colony, and later it was occupied by the Visigoths, then the Arabs and then the Franks, to become, in the end, the capital of a new country called Catalonia. 

To understand better this chain of events, it is a good idea to pay a visit to the History Museum, situated in the nearby square called Plaça del Rei. The remains and monuments of all those peoples and civilizations can be found in the sub soil of this square. This same square, with the Reial Mayor Palace, the Church of Santa Agata, the beautiful "Salo del Tinell" and the Palace of the Archive of the Crown of Aragon, is one of the most important places for finding the true flavour of Old Barcelona. From here we are within easy reach of the cathedral. 

This Gothic structure is of great interest with its fine cloister and arcades. The façade dates from the end of the 19C, but, on either side, there are some equally interesting medieval palaces such as the Palaces Els Cononjes (House of the Canons), Pia Almoina and Ardiaca. All these places should be visited at a leisurely pace, as should the streets and squares around the palaces and old houses. This whole district - also known as the Gothic quarter even though it contains constructions pertaining to several different styles - is to Barcelona what Greece and Rome are to Europe: it's origin and reference point. 

The area between the "Barrio Gotico" and the Rambla (that is to say, between the city walls dating from the 4C and 13C, of which there are practically no remains) is made up of a series of small districts which have a very typical flavour. Examples include the Santa Anna district (with its beautiful church, near the Plaça de Catalunya), and the district of El Pi (with its fine church bearing the same name). 

These districts contain houses from the 18C and 19C under which stand very traditional shops, some more than 100 years old. It is always a delight to visit the shops in the streets of Palla, Banys Nous, Call, Baqueria, Portaferrissa, El Pi, Canuda, and Santa Anna, because it is here that one can find the true deep-rooted business spirit of the people of Barcelona, as well as their individualistic and tense character between tradition and renewal. One interesting aspect of this area is that cultural centres (be they of art, science or religion) do not differ from the other aspects of life. They are in fact, totally integrated in it as something perfectly natural and necessary. This can be seen in such a typical and well-kept district as that known as Petritxol, where art, books, pastry shops and cafes serving drinking chocolate blend together harmoniously. The same is true of the streets of El Pi and Cardenal Casañas. 

The so-called "Barrio de la Ribera", between the Via Laietana and the Passeig Picasso, is, in fact, formed by several districts, including Sant Pere, Sant Agusti, Sant Cugat, Santa Caterina, La Ribera and El Born. This area grew outside the city as a fishing district. La Ribera was located next to the port; the Passeig del Born and Montcalda street were the districts of the aristocracy and Sant Pere was given over to the manufacture of textiles. The area finally became a part of the city in the 13C when it was enclosed by a new section of walls. If, at present, it seems to be a little separated from Old Barcelona it is because at the beginning of the 20C, the Vi Laietana was opened, so as to connect El Ensanche to the port area. La Ribera, being less central and well-known, is the most traditional and typical district in the area of Old Barcelona. In its upper section, the textile tradition is still conserved in the Sant Pere district, as can be seen in the Carrer Alt de Sant Pere where fabric wholesalers congregate in feverish activity. At the end of this street stands the 10C church of Sant Pere de les Puelles which has been greatly restored. 

At the beginning of this same street is the Palau de la Musica Catalana (Palace of Catalan Music), a Modernist work by the architect Lluis Domenich i Montaner in 1908, which was built for the chorale "Orfeo Catalá". It is one of the greatest jewels of Modernist art and, along with El Liceu, is the best proof of the city's passion for music in modern times. Even more typical is the Sant Augsti district (Plaça de Sant Agustí and surroundings) which, with its old houses, local crafts and way of life, takes us back to a Barcelona steeped in tradition. 

The most lively and bustling area is that around Santa Caterina market, best visited in the morning so as to take in all its local colour, both in the market ad the adjacent street, and in the smaller streets which, although a little squalid, are full of character. Princesa street, opened in the 19C, separates the upper districts from the district of La Ribera. This street is full of small businesses and characteristic of the last century. It is also linked to the painter, writer, collector and promoter of Modernism, Santiago Rusiñol who, in the novel and play "Auca del Senyor Esteve", captured for ever the typical figure of the "botiguer" (shop-keeper), and who, with his Bohemian life style that was so full of wit and humour, represented the liberal Bourgeoisie and exemplified art between the 19C and 20C. 

The Passeig del Born is Moncada street, and has aristocratic buildings dating from the 14C and 18C. This is the street with the greatest concentration of art and culture in the city, especially since, very recently, its palaces have been restored for use as museums. The first three palaces house the Picasso Museum, the most visited museum in Barcelona. It contains works from the childhood, adolescence and youth of the so-called greatest artist of the 20C, and also a fine collection of works from later periods in his life. 

In other palaces in the same street we can find the "Museo Rocamora de la Indumentaria" (Costume Museum), the "Galeria Maeght", the Omnium Cultural Institution and other art and cultural centres, both open to the public or in the preparatory stage. Montcada street leads into the Passeig del Born which was, for many centuries, the most refined and most popular avenue in the city. It was here that, in the 14C and 15C, jousts and fairs of all kinds were held (these fairs continued until well into the 19C), and the avenue still maintains much of its former glory. At one end of the avenue stands the building of the former Barcelona Central market which has now been converted into a public area given over to exhibitions, festivals, fashion shows, etc. 

Up until a few years ago, this whole area was full of small businesses concerned with the sale of foodstuffs, of which some still remain. At the other end of the Passeig del Born is the Church of Santa Maria del Mar, built in the 14C and considered to be the most perfect Gothic church in Barcelona. The church and the small squares and streets surrounding it make up one of the most attractive areas in the city, and the entire area is full of bars, restaurants, night clubs, etc. 

The third important area in the old town is known as the Raval, and is located between the Rambla and the Rondas de Santa Antoni and Sant Pau. The Raval is also made up of several districts. The uppermost, skirted by the very commercial, popular and overpopulated Pelai street, where we also find the headquarters of "La Vanguardia" (the biggest selling newspaper in Catalonia), has two points of access from the Rambla. One is via Tallers street which, in the past, was the location of many butcher's shops. These were not permitted in the city centre and so had to be located in the suburbs. The street now specialises in record shops. The second point of access is via Bonsuccés street followed be Elisabets street. Here we find, first the Convent of Bonsuccés, and then the so-called "Caseron de la Misericordia" (Orphanage) which took in abandoned children. Next there is the "Collegi de Sant Guillem d´Aquitánia" dating from the 16C which now belongs to the "Institut del Teatre", and, on the corner of Els Angels street, stands the "Casa dels Infants Orfes", another orphanage from the 16C. 

To this list of fine buildings should also be added the Convent of Els Angels, which has recently been restored, and, in Montalgre street, the enormous building known as the "Casa de la Caritat", which is going to be converted into a Museum of Modern Art in the same way as the Pompidou Centre in Paris. Further down between the streets of El Carme and El Hospital, we find the Hospital of La Santa Creu i de Sant Pau (situated behind La Boqueria Market). This was the medical centre from the times of the Middle Ages (10C) until the beginning of this century. The Gothic and later buildings, as well as the 14C courtyard, all go to form an area of art, culture and tranquillity within this mainly noisy district. The buildings house the Medical Academy, the Catalonian Library, the Masana School, and in the chapel, art exhibitions are occasionally held. The streets of El Carme and El Hospital lead into the small square and district of El Padró where an important gipsy community lies. 

The "Barrio Chino" (red-light district) spreads out between Sant Pau Street and the port, and is principally a working-class area. Its atmosphere is typified by prostitution and delinquency and there are brothels, pick-up bars and all kinds of dealings in stolen goods, as well as drug trafficking. The streets most given over to this kind of activity are Sant Pau, Robadors, Sant Oleguer, Les Tapies (perhaps the worst of all), Arc del Teatre and those adjacent streets. There is a clear continuation along Escudillers street and its surroundings on the other side of La Rambla. In this area we recommend a visit to the very popular "Bar Marsella" on the corner of Sant Pau and Sant Ramon streets. Also the "Bodega Bohemia" in Lancáster street which is a kind of low night club, somewhat "camp" in character, which tries to bring back what has now gone out of fashion. 

Visitors could also try the cabarets "Barcelona de Noche" (Barcelona at Night) in Les Tapies street and "Villa Rosa" in Arc del Teatre, as well as a host of bars where there is flamenco singing and revellers and drinkers get together. However, not all this area is given over to the lower strata of society. In Carrer on La Rambla, for example, there is Güell Palace, the work of Gaudí, which is worth a visit to see its surprising architecture and the Theatre Museum within. Also there is the Church of Sant Pau del Camp, almost at the end of Sant Pau street, which, with its Romanesque and Gothic styles, is one of the most beautiful churches in the city. 

The most entertaining part of the "Barrio Chino" is found along the continuation of El Paralelo, in the lower part of the avenue of the same name. Here we find the low night clubs and the revue and comedy theatres, such as the Arnau Theatre, the Apolo Theatre, the Victoria Theatre, and above all the famous "El Molino" (the Windmill) Theatre, a popular cabaret where the artists are as interesting as their public and nobody should fail to visit. At the present time El Parallel is undergoing a new boom period, thanks to the fact that good theatre companies are performing in the theatres and are helping to attract people from all over they city. Nevertheless, none of the area's popular atmosphere is being lost as a result. 

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The City's Coastline 

In this century the woods were converted into gardens and sports, fair and cultural installations were built on the occasion of the 1929 Universal Exhibition. It is here that the main installations for the 1992 Olympic Games are located. The best way of reaching the hill is via the Plaça d ´Espanya, which, like the main halls in the fair and exhibition area, was constructed in 1929. The fair and exhibition area, with the Avinguda de Maria Cristina running down the middle of it, has exhibition halls on both sides. The last two were built by the Modernist architect, Puig I Cadafalch. Further along is the 1986 reconstruction of the "Pabellon de Alemania" (German Pavilion), again built for the 1929 Exhibition. It is the work of Mies Van der Rohe and is considered to be one of the milestones of 20C architectural art. The large illuminated fountain was the work of Buigas. 

The National Palace, which crowns the fair and exhibition area, contains the Catalonian Museum of Art, a museum of the first order due to its collection of Romanesque works, especially wall painting, as well as a fine selection of Gothic works. Near here we find the "Poble Españyol" - an artificial village with buildings, squares and streets that are representative of the whole of Spain. There are small museums, craftsmen's workshops and shops, all of great interest to tourists. 

The trip around the hill takes us, in order, to the Archaeological Museum, the Amargós Gardens and the Greek Theatre (which has performances in the summer), the popular "Font del Gat", the Ethnological Museum, the Royal Pavilion, the Laribal Gardens, the Great Stadium, the foot of the Funicular Railway which takes one up to the Castle (the site of the Army Museum), the amusement Park, Miramar (which is going to be restored as the restaurant it originally was after being the headquarters of Spanish Television in Catalonia for many years), and, quite a lot further along, the New Cemetery. Each and every one of these aforementioned places has its own particular interest and those who seek fine archaeological works in the Archaeological Museum, beautiful and varied plants and flowers in the gardens, or perhaps the tombs of famous people in the Cemetery, to give just a few examples, will no be disappointed. From the top of Montjuic the other side of the port can be reached by cable-car. However, we shall continue the itinerary on foot. 

The road going down from Montjuic leads to the port. In the square known as Plaça de la Pau there is a monument to Columbus (a lift takes you up as far as his feet), and it is here that La Rambla starts. One may visit a reproduction of the caravel Santa Maria in which Columbus went to America, as well as the highly interesting Maritime Museum, housed in a Gothic building. The port installations can be visited in hired boats or by taking a passenger ferry known as a "golondrina" (swallow). The different sections of the port, i.e. passenger area, cargo area, yacht harbour, breakwater and the lighthouse, are all worth a visit. The Passeig del Moll de la Fusta runs parallel to the Passeig Colom. 

In and around the old part of Barcelona there are beautiful squares, such as the ones of El Duc de Medinaceli or la Mercé, as well as the Church of La Mercé. The two streets of Mercé and Gignas, next to the main Post Office, have a lot of popular bars. After the Passeig Colom there is the short Avinguda d´Isabel II, the Plaça de Palau and the Avinguda del Marques de l´Argentera. In the upper section of the Plaça de Palau stands a Gothic building with a Neoclassical appearance. This is "La Llotja" and it houses the Stock Exchange (inside an amazing Gothic hall), the Chamber of Commerce and the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of Sant Jordi, with a museum that contains works of art from the 18C-20C. In the lower section of the square we find the arcaded Casas d´en Xifre and inside the most famous Catalan restaurant of all, "Les Set Portes", founded 150 years ago. 

At the end of the Avinguda del Marqués de l ´Argentera (where the station "Estacion de Francia" is located) is La Ciutadella Park, so called because it was, for more than two centuries, a military fortress. It is a lovely park complete with lake, a waterfall, several fountains, many statues, the fine Zoological Museum "Castel dels Tres Dragons" (designed as a hotel by the architect Domenech i Montaner), El Invernaculo (Conservatory) and El Umbraculo (the buildiing of the Catalan Parliament) which also contains the Museum of Modern Art. There are works of local interest as well as some of universal fame, eg. Fortuny, Nonell, etc. The park also contains the Zoo which is a "must" for all children (and adults for that matter) who are interested in animal life. The high point must surely be to see the white gorilla known as "Copito de Nieve" (Snowflake). 

The Passeig Nacional starts in the Plaça de Palau and stretches out towards the sea. Here, on the right-hand side, are the dock warehouses and the fishing cooperative where fish is auctioned, and on the left-hand side is the district of La Barceloneta. This district was built on the mud flats in the middle of the 18C as a fishermen's quarter, and it maintains its original flavour even today. There are restaurants both in the centre as well as the side of the beach, all specialising in fish dishes, along with typical popular snack bars. At the end of the Passeig Nacional there is an interesting Aquarium, and a variety of facilities for public bathing. The Promenade which follows provides fine views across the beach and out to sea. Many people from all over Barcelona come here to bathe in the summer months. Further along is the manufacturing district of Poble Nou, with its beautiful fishing quarter and fishing boats lying on the beach, as well as a very popular and typical Rambla. 

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El Ensanche

The area situated to the left of Balmes street (along which passed the Sarria railway) was named "Izquierda" (Left-handed side) del Ensanche; the central part, between Balmes street ad the Passeig de Sant Joan became known as "Derecha· (right hand side) del Ensanche, and was the part occupied by the Bourgeoisie. The area situated even further to the right was given various names including districts of La Sagrada Familia, Glories, etc. 

The "Derecha del Ensanche" is separated from the old town by the Plaça de Catalunya and the Ronda de Sant Pere. This square, which is about the same size as St. Peter's square in Rome, has been altered on several occasions, the last time being in 1986. In the middle there is an open area, usually full of children and pigeons. This is surrounded by tree-filled gardens containing statues by such famous sculptors as Gargallo and Clará. The periphery is made up of large buildings including a branch of the popular department store "El Corte Ingles", the Telephone Exchange and several banks eg. Banco de España, Bilbao, Central, etc. The large amount of banks found here have made this square, along with the lower part of the Passeig de Gracia and adjacent streets, become known as Barcelona´s main business area. It is here that the big service companies, airlines, tourist agencies and large firms have their main offices, as well as the most important businesses and shops. The square also contains some street-side cafés thanks to the wide pavements. One example is "Zurich" - a bar frequented by young people and tourists. Opposite this bar is the entrance to the Sarria railway as well as curious underground shopping arcade called the Avinguda de la Luz. The Ronda de Sant Pere connects the old quarter of the textile manufacturers with the lower area of El Ensanche, where we find the offices of the large Catalan textile companies. 

The main avenue in the area of the "Derecha del Ensanche" is the Passeig de Gracia, a wide boulevard with plane trees and unusual Modernist seats with street lamps, and where there are luxury shops and street-side cafes with awnings. In the 19C this avenue was surrounded by large gardens and buildings for recreation. Running parallel to the Passeig de Gracia is the Rambla de Catalunya on one side and the streets of Pau Claris, Roger de Lluria, Bruc and Girona on the other. The whole area contains the largest number of Modernist buildings in the city. Numbers 2 to 4 of the Passeig de Gracia are Modernist houses attributed to the architect E. Sagnier in 1890, and number 6 to 14 were the work of B. Bassegeda in 1918. Passing along the Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes (one of the widest and largest thoroughfares in Barcelona) and continuing, on the right-hand side, along Diputació street, we come to Pau Claris street where the beautiful Passatge Permanyer opens out into a block. On the other side of this alleyway, which, incidently dates from 1864, is Roger de Lluira street with its fine Modernist houses and important shops. Reaching Arago street one can see the Gothic Church of La Concepció with its magnificent cloister. This church was brought brick by brick from the old town. 

The Market of La Concepció (1888) with its interesting structure of iron and glass can also be seen. Both buildings served the spiritual and material needs of the Bourgeoisie of the time. Going up Bruc street we find, at number 110, the Municipal School of Music, the work of the architect Falguera in 1928. Quite near here, at number 302 Valencia street, is the Casa Elizalde, an important film centre in El Ensanche which has exhibitions about Modernism and other themes relating to the area. 

A little higher up, at the junction between Mallorca and Roger de Lluria streets, is the heart of Modernism. This is not only apparent in the Casa Montaner (1889), the work of Domenech i Montaner who was one of the great architects of the time, or in the Casades palace, dating from the end of the 19C and seat of the Bar Association, but also all the houses in the area. We suggest you take a look at all the façades with their ornamentation and balconies, and go into their entrances to see their wall paintings, lamps and sculptures as well as their strange lifts and beautiful staircases. Better still would be having the chance to visit any of the private houses which conserve, with their original structure, the decoration and furniture from between seventy and one hundred years ago. One important example is the Casa Thomas (1898) at 291, Mallorca street. This was also the work of Domenech i Montaner and one may get to see its interior thanks to the fact that the furniture design company BD is located on the ground floor. 

We have now reached the Diagonal (the other great avenue of Barcelona, so named because it crosses El Ensanche diagonally). From number 416 to 420 we can see the Casa de les Punxes, the work of Puig i Cadafalch (another of the main Modernist architects) in 1905 which has a medieval appearance. At number 373 of the same avenue there is another work by the same architect. This is the Casa Quadras where there is the very attractive Music Museum and where one can see the inside of another Modernist house. After the Diagonal, at 318 Córsega street is the Casa Comalat, yet another of the jewels of Modernism and the work of the architect Valeri. At the junction between the Diagonal and the Passeig de Gracia is the Plaça del Cinc d´Oros as well as the Robert Palace. 

Going down the Passeig de Gracia we can find some interesting buildings eg. the one at number 112, the work of Sagnier; number 113 by Falques; number 96 by Rovira i Rabassa (this, in fact, belonged to the Modernist painter Ramon Casas) and, a little further down, the restaurant called "La Punyalada" which was a meeting place for Modernist artists and those from subsequent periods. At number 82 stands one of the most famous buildings in Barcelona: the Casa Milá, which is known locally as "La Pedrera" (1906-1909). This was the work of the famous architect Antoni Gaudi and it caused such a stir in its day that it was thought to have been built by the devil himself or at least by a madman. For many people it is the most important representation of Modernism of all, and it is one of the most important architectural buildings of the 20C in the whole world. 

The block a little further down on the right-hand side is popularly named the "Manzana de la Discordia" (lit: "Apple of discord" but also a play on words since "manzana" also means block). This was due to the reputation of its architects. Its main buildings are, at number 43, the beautiful Casa Batllo by Gaudi; at number 41, the Casa Amatller by Puig i Cadafalch (with the Institut d´Art Amatller); tow houses by Sagnier at number 37 and 39; and, lastly, the Casa Lleo Morera by Domenech i Montaner at number 35. 

These houses were all built at the end of the 19C and at the beginning of the 20C. It could be said that this block is the quintessence of Catalan Modernism. From here one can pay a visit to the Rambla de Catalunya which is a more intimate kind of avenue thanks to its size and its lime trees. Here, too, we can find some Modernist houses e.g. at number 77 where there is the attractive Bolos Chemist. The section of Consell de Cent street between the Rambla de Catalunya and Balmes street contains numerous art galleries. Throughout this area there are shopping centres (eg. The Vulevar Rosa) and highly prestigious shops, as well as the city's main cinemas. When the good weather begins the street-side cafés in the Rambla de Catalunya become one of the most popular places in Barcelona. 

The "Izquierda del Ensanche", which is no less interesting from an architectural point of view, is the area where many large public buildings are located. Examples include the University, built in the 1860´s by Elies Rogent, the Clinical Hospital by Domenech i Estapa, the Main Fire Station, the Council Seminary, the Prison (known as "La Modelo"), the Les Arenes Bullring, and the site of the Abattoir that was changed a few years ago into a square known as the Plaça de l´Escorxador (Abattoir) with its gardens, recreational area and the statue of Joan Miró. 

Lastly, in the district of La Sagrada Familia, we find the great Temple of La Sagrada Familia. The crypt was begun by Villar in 1882 and was completed by Gaudi when he took over construction in 1891. From that moment right up to his death in 1926, Gaudi built the Neogothic apse and planned this ambitious temple. He only saw the completion of one of the three façades with belltowers. That was the one representing the Nativity. In the 1950´s the façade representing the Passion was constructed, and, at the present time, they are trying to complete the temple with the façade to the Glory - largest of the three - and also put a roof over the structure. After visiting this monument, which stands at the junction of the streets of Marina and Provença, we recommend going along the Avinguda Gaudi as far as the Hospital of Sant Pau. This was the work of Lluis Domenech i Montaner and has a large number of sections. 

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Gracia 

In the Plaça de Lesseps we find the Church ´dels Josepetes which is Catalan-Baroque in style. However, the most interesting thing is to lose oneself in the little back streets where one can find many craftmen´s workshops and small industries as well as very small houses. At the present time, the young people have made this district fashionable and, as a result, the number of bars and restaurants, especially in the many beautiful squares, has increased dramatically. We recommend a visit to the Plaça del Sol and the Plaça de Rius i Taulet where the Tower of El Rellotge (the clock) stands. 

In Leopoldo Alas street there is the Lliure Theatre, one of the most innovatory theatres in the country. All its productions are performed in Catalan. Another interesting site is the Market of La Llibertad (1840) which was covered with an iron roof in 1875. The popular festivities of Gracia which are celebrated in the middle of August are yet another interesting aspect. 

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Güell Park and Horta 

Near here we have the Gaudí Museum which contains plans, photographs, furniture and many objects related to the park and to the architect's life. Of further interest is the road which winds up over the most imaginative bridges, as if in an enchanted world, until it reaches a promontory crowned by three crosses. The Plaça de Lesseps is reached by taking the Travessera de Dalt once again. From here we take the Avinguda de l´Hospital Militar, and, passing through the picturesque Vallcarca district, come to the Passeig de la Vall d´Hebron. Access to several interesting sites is possible on the left hand side at the foot of the mountain. For example, there is the Church of Sant Genís dels Agudells, the "Hogares Mundet" (an Old Peoples Home), the ultramodern cycle track, and especially "El laberint" - an estate with several buildings, outside staircases, sculptures and other installations dating from the 18C and 19C, set in the middle of a large park. There is also a maze made from cypress trees for the delight of both young and old. 

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Sant Gervasi And The Residential Area Of The City 

This street also has many good quality shops and, here, too, there is a small park at the top of Putxet Hill. It was here that the people of Barcelona built their holiday homes at the beginning of the century. At the end of Balmes street there is the Passeig de Sant Gervasi which runs around the foot of Mount Tibidabo, past large mansions and gardens as far as the Plaça de la Bonanova. Sant Gervasi also has another large street, known as the Via Augusta, which winds its way from the Diagonal to Sarria. It is another street that is important because of its shops and businesses. The same can be said of the Diagonal itself, especially in the lower part, where it runs into the Plaça de Francesc Macia. The cream of Barcelona society can be found in the many bars hereabouts. 

The city's residential area stretches out to the West of Sant Gervasi to the area around Turó Park, La Bonanove, Sarriá and Pedralbes. To the south runs the Diagonal, and to the North the Passeig de La Bonanova and the Passeig de la Reina Elisenda. This is the cleanest area of Barcelona since there are no factories to pollute the air, and consequently has become the area preferred by the old and new Bourgeoisie. Here we can still find some older parts, such as Sarria, which still has its typical square, small streets with low houses and even some with gardens, as well its other small squares. Nevertheless, most of this area has been recently built by the main architects of the last forty years, including Coderch de Sentmenat, Oriol Bohigas, Mitjans, Ricard Bofill and A.Bonet. In many cases, the block of luxury flats are separated by gardens and are located in tree-lined avenues that are more or less tranquil. 

A visit should be made, for example, to the streets in the district of La Bonanova (which lies above the avenue of the same name), those in Sarria, the ones in the area of Turo Park and, above all, those streets in Pedralbes. From the Plaça de Frances Macia, and continuing along the Diagonal, we pass the University where a visit could, perhaps, be made to the School of Architecture. The extension to this building was the work of Coderch de Sentmenat, the best Catalan architect of late. To the right stands the Royal Palace of Pedralbes with its sumptuous halls, 18C wall paintings and an important art collection. Almost opposite is the home of Barcelona Football Club (Popularly known as "el Barça") with its Camp Nou stadium. 

In the Avinguda de Pedralbes can be seen, to the left, the Güell Estate with its wall, gates and two pavilions by Gaudí, and on the right hand side there is an important tennis club. At the end of this avenue stands the 14C Monastery of Pedralbes. With its church, convent, beautiful cloister, paintings by Ferrer Bassa in the Chapel of Sant Miquel, and gardens, this is perhaps one of the finest monuments in the city. Those areas that were not developed in their day are being done so now in an attempt to create new parks, avenues and buildings of the first order. 

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Mount Tibidabo and Collserola 

It is also from here that the funicular railway leaves for the summit of Mount Tibidabo. Here we can find the oldest amusement park in Spain, also created by Dr. Andreu. Nowadays it is aimed more at young children rather than adolescents, and apart form the traditional rides there is also a new Automaton Museum. The summit is crowned with the Church of El Sagrat Cor (the Sacred Heart) which was the work of Sagnier. From here one can make trips into the woods or perhaps go to the town-cum-district of Vallvidrera. This is reached after passing the Fabra Observatory and going through Villa Joana where there is a small museum dedicated to Jacint Verdaguer, the greatest of Catalan poets. From Vallidrera the visitor can either go back down to the city or go further into the Sierra de Collserola. Here there are housing estates and urban development such as Les Planes, La Floresta and Valldoreix, set in the middle of the woods. The area of El Valles is on the other side of the mountains and will be described in the following section. 

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The area around Barcelona 

In Sabadell there is a famous Paleontological Museum, and, on the outskirts of the city, the Shrine of La Mare de Deu de la Salut. 

Along the coast, in the direction of the Costa Brava, we first come across Badalona which is almost an extension of Barcelona itself. Here there is the monastery of Sant Jeroni de la Murtra and a Roman village dating from the 2C B.C. Mongat is noted for its beaches and old quarter, and El Masnou, in the area of Maresme, is interesting because of its carnation fields. Mataro, further on, is a lively, go-ahead town with a medieval district, the remains of a a Roman town and a manufacturing area. Nearby are the very popular beaches of Caldes dÉstrac, Caldetes and Sant Andreu de Llavaneres. Perhaps the most beautiful town in this area is Arenys de Mar. This was the town of adoption of the great Catalan poet Salvador Espriu who gave it the name "Sinera" (which incidentally is Arenys written backwoods). It also has a fine port. 

Further inland in the same area, there are two very famous rocky massifs. The first is Montsseny, which has rich vegetation and was poetically described by Bofill i Mates as the "mountain of amethysts" because of its autumnal light. Good trips can be made from here to the peaks of "Les Agudes" and "Turo de l´Home", the Valley of Santa Fe and the hamlets of Monseny and Viladrau, both perfect for spending ones summer holidays. The other massif is Montnegre. This is a little wilder with large forests and scattered farmhouses. 

Also inland, but on the western side, is the famous mountain of Montserrat. This is unusual because it has upright blocks of granite which have made it, since time immemorial, the country's most sacred mountain. Here we find the Romanesque Monastery and Shrine of the Virgin of Montserrat (also known as "La Moreneta" or Black Virgin because of her dark complextion), This is a place for both pilgrims and tourists who come, not only to see the monastery and hear its "Escolania" (boy's choir), but also for the beauty of the surroundings. 

Taking the dual carriageway along the west coast,, the first place we reach is Castelldefels. This is very popular because of its Pinewood's, beaches, sports facilities and restaurants. Immediately after Castelldefels the road winds its way through the rocky massif of Garraf. On the other side is one of the most attractive resorts on the Catalan coast. This is Sitges, sometimes called "Blanca Subur" because of its whitewashed houses. Thanks to its streets sloping down to the sea, its promenade lined with palm trees, its large beach, its church overlooking the town, and its countless restaurants, hotels, bars and nightclubs, it has become one of the most important tourist centres on the Mediterranean and is one of the oldest summer holiday resorts in the country. Art is also well represented since it was here that Santiago Rusiñol started the Modernist Festivals at the end of the last century. These helped to give added impetus to this artistic movement. It was here that he created the Cau Ferrat Museum with the purpose of exhibiting his great collection of ironwork, glassware and paintings. This museum is finished off by the palace which stands opposite and is the location of the summer university, as well as by the streets and small palaces to be found throughout this district. 

Sitges is famous for its festivities of the Virgin of El Carmen at the beginning of summer, and especially Corpus Christi in the spring. a little further on there is the no less interesting town of Vilanova i la Geltru which is both industrial and maritime, with its port and promenade. here we find many famous restaurants specialising in fish dishes. The Barcelona Casino is located in Sant Pere de Ribes. 

Those who wish to find out more about wine production should make for the region of El Penedes and visit the Wine Museum at Vilafranca or Sant Sadurni dÁnoia to try its sparkling champagne-type wines. This is one of the most beautiful and interesting regions in Catalonia. 

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The year and its popular festivities 

Christmas is traditionally celebrated at home with the family and with the newly-revived custom of "fer cagar el tio" (this consists of putting an object similar to a tree trunk into the fire from which presents then come out). Christmas dinner takes the form of "escudella" and turkey, "torrons" (a kind of nougat). New year is celebrated in bars, restaurants, and in the street where people wear fancy dress just like in the carnivals. As the clock strikes twelve they eat the twelve grapes in time with each chime. 

In January the main celebration is the arrival of the "Three Kings from the Orient" on the 5th when there is a cavalcade, and the 6th when both children and adults receive toys and gifts. The Carnivals, held in February, are becoming more and more popular again after they were forbidden during the dictatorship, and St. Valentines Day (February 14th) is also increasing in its popularity. On March 3rd the popular festivity of Sant Medir is held in Grácia and there is a cavalcade and singing choirs. Holy Week begins with the palm fair which is held on Palm Sunday. It continues with the typical religious festivities and ends on Easter Monday which is pagan in origin. 

The most spectacular festivities are held on April 23rd. These are the celebrations in honour of Sant Jordi (St. George), the patron saint of Catalonia. It also coincides with the rose and book festivals. In may a flower show is held, and on the 11th there is the typical festival of Sant Ponç held in El Hospital street by the city's herbalists. A book Fair is held in the Passeig de Gracia in June and during the same month there is a Trade Exhibition in Montjuic, the Corpus Christi celebrations with the typical processions of "giants" and "cabezudos", and the "l´Ou com Balla" (the dancing egg) which takes place in the fountain in the Cathedral cloister. The most important celebration during the month of June is undoubtedly the Eve of Sant Joan (St. John). This is celebrated both in private houses and in public places, and there is dancing and the typical "coca", as well as bonfires in some streets and squares, and fireworks. The Eve of Sant Pere (St. Peter), on June 28th, brings with it the festivities associated with the summer solstice. 

From the end of June onwards, the Festival of "el Grec" begins. This consists of a series of theatrical performances as well as dancing, concerts, and other cultural events. These take place either at the Greek Theatre in Montjuic, in the open air, or in certain other places in the city. There are also many sports tournaments and competitions as well as several trade fairs at the Exhibition Centre. July 24th marks the Feast of Sant Jaume (St. James) and is celebrated in much the same way as the Eves of St. Joan and Sant Pere. Around the Feast of the Assumption (August 15th), there are popular festivities held in the district of Gracia. 

The last great summer celebration is that of the "Onze de Setembre" (September 11th). This is a national holiday in Catalonia and they hold various official and political ceremonies. However, there are many more celebrations held throughout the year in the city itself and in its different districts. These range from religious ceremonies to special lunches and dinners, processions and performances. The fact that there are so many traditional festivities held has led many people to say that Barcelona is one of the most traditionalist cities in Europe when it comes to celebrations. 

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Shopping in the City 

There are modern department stores in the Plaça de Catalunya, Portal de l´Angel and the new part of the Diagonal, while the most typical are found in Pelai street, the Ronda Universitat and the Rondes de Sant Antoni Sant Pau. This whole area, between Old and New Barcelona, is full of clothes shops, furniture shops and those specialising in household goods and textiles. 

Barcelona has many food markets. Perhaps the most central and most popular are La Boqueria (La Rambla), Concepcio (Arago street), Ninot (Mallorca street) and Santa Caterina (Avinguda de la Catedral). All these markets sell fish, meat, eggs and vegetables. 

Other typical aspects of Barcelona are "los colmados" (grocer's shops). These are usually found in El Ensanche and sell anything from wine, sausage-type meats, cheese, fruit, eggs, tinned foods, biscuits and the like. There are bakeries in every district, and in the area of Born there are a great many shops selling dried fruits and nuts, vegetables, cereals, salted cod, biscuits, "torrons" and cheese. Good herbalists can be found in the streets of Mercaders, Vidre, Xucla, Princesa, Travessera de Gracia and many more. 

In the plaça Nova a "Gothic" market selling antiques is held every Thursday, and there are also good antique shops in El Call street and in the area around the Cathedral, a large part of El Ensanche and the new part of the city. Rosa boulevard (Rambla Catalunya) is yet another important area. For those who want to buy gifts and souvenirs, the main areas are La Rambla, Ferran and Princesa streets, and around the Cathedral. Pottery, glassware and imitation jewellery can be found near the food markets, in the "Poble Espanyol", in the Santa Maria district, around the Plaça de El Pi and the lower part of La Rambla and the area of the Sant Antoni Market. Other general shopping areas apart from Old Barcelona, are the Passeig de Gracia and El Ensanche, Aribau and Muntaner streets, the Diagonal and all the main thoroughfares in the city. 

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Restaurants, hotels, bars and variety theatres 

The main Catalan dishes include "escudella i carn d´olla"· (vegetable, stew, rice, noodles and potatoes served as a soup), followed by "el cocido" (stew) with haricot beans, "botifarra" (Catalan sausage), "pilota" (minced beef), bread, eggs and selected spices. Valencian "paella" comes under the name of "arros a la cassola". "La Zarzuela" is a dish consisting of monk fish, grouper, prawns or king prawns, squid and mussels. If lobsters used instead of king prawns it is known as "opera", "Suqet de peix" is another dish containing a variety of fish. Other typical dishes include "bacalla a la Llauna" (cod cooked and seasoned in a metal boiling-pan), "faves a la catalana" (large haricot beans), and "botifarra amb mongetes" (Catalan sausage with beans). There is also a wide variety of confectionery. For example "crema catalan", "mel i mato" (cottage cheese with honey, "torrons" (a kind of nougat), "postre de music" (pine kernels and raisins), etc. Important wines include those from Peralada, Alella, Taragona, Priorat (red wine), El Penedes (red and white) and the sparkling wines from El Penedés and Peralada. 

As far as accommodation is concerned, there are hotels, hostels, and boarding houses. The former are naturally more expensive than the latter. Boarding houses abound in Old Barcelona whereas in La Rambla, near to the Cathedral and El Ensanche, there are fine hotels. This is also the case of the upper and residential areas of the city. Barcelona is more than prepared to cater for the millions of visitors it welcomes each year. 

There are bars to be found in every district of the city, but some areas specialise in them more than other. For example: the district of La Ribera, the area around Santa Maria del mar, La Rambla, the districts of Raval, Gracia and Sarria. The more refined bars are found in the Rambla de Catalunya, the Passeig de Gracia, the Diagonal, the Plaça de Francesc Macia and the residential area in general. 

Variety theatres enjoy a great tradition in the city and are located in El Parallel, where there are many revues and night clubs. There are other in Tapies street such as "Barcelona de Noche" (Barcelona at Night), the streets of Arc del Teatro, Escudeller, Aribau, Muntaner, Sant Gervasi and in the Diagonal. Those interested in dancing and discotheques will find dozens all over the city. 

For weekly information regarding bars, restaurants, cinemas, theatres and concerts there is the magazine "Guia del Ocio" (Leisure Guide), and for news items and information about the city there is the magazine "Barcelona" and another called "Vivir en Barcelona" (Barcelona Life). Tourist Information Centres provide leaflets on the different cultural and business aspects of the city as well as the different public services. 

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MUSEUMS 

Medieval Art 

Museum of Catalan Art* 

Frederic Mares Museum* 

Open daily except Mondays from 9am-2pm and 4-7pm. 

Sundays and Public Holidays from 9am - 2 pm 

Cathedral Museum 

Located in the Cathedral cloister. It contains reredoses and paintings of the Catalan-Gothic school. Open from 11am - 1pm 

Museum of the Monastery of Pedralbes* 

This building, which is of great architectural value, contains personal property which shows the different ages in the history of the monastery. 

Open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:30am-2pm. 

Closed on Sundays, Mondays and Public Holidays. 

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History 

Museum of the History of the City of Barcelona* 

The basement contains the remains of some of the ancient constructions of Roman Barcelona. The three other floors have exhibits relating to local history (institutions, customs, famous people, different stages in urban development, etc). There are many documents, prints, paintings, sculptures and ceramics. 

Open on weekdays except Mondays from 9am - 8:30pm, and weekends and public holidays from 9am - 1:30pm. 

Visits to the excavations by Antonio Maura on the second Sunday of every month, and the section dedicated to famous Catalans on the third Sunday of every month. 

Archaeological Museum* 

Exhibits from Prehistoric times to the 7C, with some interesting rooms given over to the finds from Empuries and the Balearic culture. Magnificent collection of Roman Mosaics. 

Open from 9:30am - 1pm and 4 - 7pm (except Mondays). Sundays and Public Holidays from 9:30am -1pm. 

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Science 

Science Museum 

Open from 10am - 8pm (except Mondays). 

Planetarium shows. Weekdays at 1pm and 6pm. Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays every 30 minutes (Children under 4 not admitted). 

Scientific film shows. Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays in the morning and the afternoon. 

"Mentora Alsina" Experimental Physics Museum* 

Visits by prior arrangement. 

Botanical Gardens and Institute* 

Contains Mediterranean flora and vegetation. Open Monday to Saturday from 3- 5pm, and Sundays and Public Holidays from 9am - 2pm. 

Museum of the History of Medicine* 

Contains a collection of some 2,500 exhibits showing the evolution of medicine, as well as the personal effects of the great masters of Catalan medicine. 

Open on Thursdays from 10am-1pm. 

"Martorell" Museum of Geology* 

Has Petrographical, Mineralogical and Paleontological sections. 

Open daily except Mondays from 9am-2pm. 

Zoological Museum* 

Exhibition of stuffed animals and important study collections. 

Open daily except Mondays from 9am - 2pm. 

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Barcelona and the Sea 

Maritime Museum* 

Contains objects and documents relating to the history of navigation, as well as the "Llibre del Consolat de Mar" (the oldest legislative book on maritime law in existence). The Cartography and Scale Model sections are of particular interest. 

Open daily except Mondays from 10am-2pm. 

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Contemporary Art 

Picasso Museum* 

The largest monographical museum in the world containing an extraordinary collection of works by the great painter. 

Open daily except Mondays from 10am-8pm. 

Museum of Modern Art* 

Has paintings and sculptures from the end of the 18C up to the present day. There are paintings by Fortuny, Rusiñol, Casas, Nonell, Regoyos, Zuloaga, Sunyer, Sotomayor, Solana and Picasso ("Harlequin"), and sculptures by Llimona, Gargallo, Hugue, Clara and Rebull. 

Open Tuesday to Saturday from 9am - 7:30pm. Mondays from 2 - 7:30pm and Sundays and Public Holidays from 9am - 2pm. 

Miro Foundation 

Located on the hill of Montjuic. Plaça Neptu. Tel: 329 1908. 

This private, cultural foundation was set up by the painter Joan Miro and has exhibition rooms, an auditorium, a library, a prints archive and areas set aside for artistic and other kinds of exhibition. There are three courtyards, gardens and upper terraces for outdoor exhibitions, as well as a permanent exhibition of the works of Joan Miro. The white and luminous building was the work of the architect J.L. Sert. 

Open daily except Mondays from 11am- 7pm. Sundays and Public Holidays from 10:30am - 2:30pm. 

Clara Museum* 

Contains a collection of sculptures by Calrá. 

Open daily except Mondays from 9:30am-1:30pm. 

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Other Museums 

Museum of Pictorial Art* 

Exhibition of all the techniques of pictorial art. 

Open Monday to Friday from 9am - 2pm. (Temporarily closed for restoration.) 

Museum of the Arts, Industry and Popular Traditions* 

Contains an 18C pharmacy and the "Casa Pallaresa" (a reproduction of a Pyrenean farmhouse from the beginning of this century). 

Open daily except Mondays from 9am-2pm. 

Museum of the Arts of Entertainment 

Located in Güell Palace and the work of Gaudí. 

Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11am-2pm and 5-8pm. Closed on Sundays, Mondays and Public Holidays. 

Automaton Museum 

An unusual collection of automaton dolls from the beginning of the century. In winter the museum is open on Saturdays, Sundays and Pubic Holidays from 11am-8pm. 

Footwear Museum 

Open daily except Mondays from 11am-2pm. 

Ceramica Museum* 

Fine collection of Spanish and Foreign ceramics. (In the process of being prepared for transfer to the Palace of Pedralbes.) 

Museum of Funeral Carriages* 

Open daily except Sundays and public Holidays from 9am - 1pm. 

Wax Museum 

Contains a collection of wax figures representing famous people from the world of the arts, science, history, etc. 

Open Monday to Friday from 11am-1:30pm and 4-7:30pm. Saturdays from 11am - 1:30pm and 4-8:00pm 

Ethnological Museum* 

Contains objects from the American Civilisation before Columbus, the Philippines, Asia and Africa. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 9am-8:30pm. Sundays and Public Holidays from 9am- 2pm. Closed Mondays. 

Museum of Barcelona Football Club 

Explains the clubs history and displays its trophies. Special video shown on five screens. Includes visit to the presidential box. 

Open Mondays to Fridays from 10am-1pm and 4-6pm. Saturdays and Sundays from 10am-1pm (closed on match days). 

House-cum-Museum of Gaudí. 

Open Sundays and Public Holidays from 10am-2pm and 4-7pm. 

Gallery of Famous Catalans* 

Contains a collection of portraits of the great figures of Catalan history. Visits by prior arrangement (Museum of the City of Barcelona Tel: 315 1111). 

Holographical Museum 

Contains holograms and demonstrates holographic techniques. 

Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11am-1:30pm and 5:30-8:30pm. Closed on Sundays, Mondays and Public Holidays. 

Montjuic Castle Military Museum 

Has a valuable collection of weapons and historical documents. In winter the museum is open Monday to Saturday from 10am-2pm and 4-7pm. Sundays and Public Holidays from 10am-7pm. In summer it is open from Monday to Saturday from 10am-2pm and 4-8pm. Sundays and Public Holidays from 10am-7pm. 

Museum of Music* 

Contains string and wind instruments, manuscripts and personal effects of the great musicians. 

Open daily except Mondays from 9am-2pm. 

Museum of the Palace of Pedralbes* 

Has a valuable collection of tapestries and various objects of art. 

Open Tuesday to Friday from 10am-1pm and 4-6pm. Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays from 10am-2pm. Closed on Mondays. 

Postal Museum* 

Open Tuesday to Friday from 9:30am-1:30pm and 4:30-8:30pm. 

Barcelona Planetarium 

Images projected overhead explaining the strange world of the stars. Visits by prior arrangement. 

Perfume Museum 

Contains a valuable collection of scent bottles and cosmetics jars dating from antiquity to the present day. 

Open Monday to Friday from 10am-1:30pm and 4-7:30pm. Closed on Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays. 

Textile and Costume Museum* 

Palace of the Marquis of Llio. Rocamora collection. Embroidery section. 

Open daily except Mondays from 9am-2pm and 4:30-7pm. 

Bullfighting Museum 

It consists of two large rooms and exhibits the branding-irons and emblems of famous stock farms, the heads of famous bulls, a collection of posters from the past, old tickets, the suits of famous bullfighters and "rejoneadores" (mounted bullfighters), photographs, documents, documents, a library and other objects relating to bullfighting in general. 

Open during the bullfighting season from 10am - 1pm and 3:30 - 7pm. On bullfighting days the museum is open in the morning from 10am - 1pm only. 

Vedraguer Museum* 

The home of the Catalan poet Mossen Cinto Verdaguer. 

Open daily except Mondays from 9am-2pm. 

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* Denotes free admission to Municipal Museums. 

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